The Alps
In August I headed to Chamonix for a week of climbing with Jeff. As soon as I landed in Geneva we headed to Cham, got changed, and headed right up the Aiguille du Midi! It was less than 24 hours between being in a meeting in NYC until when we were climbing on the Cosmiques Arête. The weather was perfect and we spent the night at the Cosmiques hut, where we got cold beer, hot food, and comfy beds. Perfect start to a climbing trip!
The first few moves of the Cosmiques. Just like my view from my office less than a day before!
Great exposure for an AD climb!
The crux had drilled holes for your feet. Cheating!
The upper crux.
Dinner of champions
They need a restaurant like this at the top of the Gunks
We started out the next morning before sunrise in order to beat any crowds, and hiked over to Pointe Lachenal and climbed Contamine, a really high quality 8 pitch route on excellent granite. By the time we were rapping, another dozen or so people were on the route. Good thing we started early!
Which way is Italy?
This was my first time on a climb where I needed to switch from boots and crampons at the base into rock shoes
After the climb, we crossed the glacier and spent the night at the Rifugio Torino on the Italian side. The views on the crossing were incredible, so much to climb!
Which way to Italy?
We kicked off the next morning early and headed up to the base of the Dent du Géant, a massive spire topping out at just over 4000m. The weather was supposed to turn in the early afternoon, and a few other parties going for the climb turned around at the base. We headed up, knowing the route had fixed ropes and that we could turn around at any point. We climbed fast, using the fixed ropes for aid. By the time we summited it was hailing and the wind was howling, and an electrical storm was beginning to form. We rapped as fast as possible (no summit beers this time!) and made it down safe and sound.
On the way down after the weather cleared
This lightweight wind shell was definitely not waterproof
After the Dent du Géant we had a beer at the hut and took the cable car down into Courmayeur. Grabbed a bite to eat, and then realized we couldn’t buy bus tickets back to Cham because neither of us brought out passports. Whoops! It took a little while, but we managed to hitchhike our way back. After three days in the mountains, it was time for some Après climb back in town.
After a day off, it looked like the weather was going to prevent any big climbs nearby, but further east in Switzerland things looked to be lining up perfectly. Jeff proposed a traverse of the Matterhorn, going up the Liongrat route on the Italian side, spending a night at the Carrel hut before summiting the next day, and then down the Hörnli into Zermatt. The perfect weather at the peak of the season meant that about 100 people were on the route, but by starting early both days we never got stuck behind slow parties and were able to top out with incredible views of the Swiss and Italian alps.
Which way to Switzerland?
Busy night at the hut
Summit!
Because we started so early to get ahead of everyone, we were down at noon, drinking beers and eating rosti with a couple of Austrians.
The next day in Zermatt we took the cog rail above town and climbed the Egg route on the Riffelhorn, a really fun 6 pitch route. We spent the rest of the day enjoying the food and drinks Zermatt had to offer. We looked a bit strange walking around in our boots, but thats just how it goes in towns like that!
This is the actual rope that broke on the first ascent, sending 4 members of the party for a long ride down the mountain
We heard some amazing stories from this guy Fritz who was having a beer outside the Monta Rosa. He’s visited every US state and once leant his motorcycle to Steve McQueen.
Cheers!
The trip wrapped up with a crossing back into Italy (this time by tram and hiking, rather than traversing a 4000m mountain!) and heading back to Cham for a dinner of Raclette paired with French wines. I think I can get used to this type of climbing!
